Could this be the most inviting city on the Iberian Peninsula?
I think so. I say that since I have an a few intimate experiences to share that prove it so.
Here's one, for example.
Sitting at one of many restaurants in the city center just a stones-throw from the Cathedral, we waited for the waiter to make his way our way. As we sit, my mom and I watch a replay of the splendorous FC Barcelona vs. AC Milan Champions League game that ended in a 4-0 shellacking of the Italians. I was in bliss as we watched this game; it was fitting to later find that our night would very much resemble this initial excitement.
Once the 20-something waiter worked his way around to our table, his enthusiasm struck us both. "Welcome!" he cried out as my mom and I both responded with a calm-cracking smile. "Would you two like some wine, a beer, or something else?!" The man's exuberance was contagious as my mom and I spontaneously and immediately desired something that matched what our waiter had just consumed! "What is the house specialty?" I inquired. With no hesitation, he responded, "the Arabic coffee is our specialty; you'll love it!" My mom and I both agreed to the recommendation. And the waiter backed his way back to the front door of the restaurant with the same constant smile that marked his arrival to and stay at our table.
Once eye contact ended, the two of us threw around some questions:
Where is he from? What is up with him? My mom wondered: Is he single?!
Then, some affirmations: I think we found the right place! I know this'll be the best coffee ever! Wow...Granada is the best city in Spain so far!
As we sat contently at our place along the walking street littered with other restaurants, stores, and miscellaneous businesses, we knew that we were in for a wonderful experience. Our waiter returned as enthusiastic as ever.
And this story begins:
Tom was from a city on the Mediterranean coast of Morocco. He and his family came to Granada two years ago to set up their business. It was very obvious that they were giving it their best to attract tourists to their place and give them a level of hospitality and attention not often practiced in Spain. Tom inquired into our lives: Where are you from? We responded: California. He reacted: Wow! How wonderful.... I'd love to go one day!
This was a situation that everyone should experience at one point or another in their travels. There's nothing like being treated as humans rather than as exploitable tourists. For me, this is what I seek in my travels. These human connections that are possible everywhere, but are especially loud and fulfilling whenever they are made. I must say that that Arabic coffee was the best coffee that I had had; maybe ever! This, of course, shows us the positive impact of living through an attitude of gratitude. I've come to find, through careful attention to my hang-ups, that gratitude can re-frame the way that we perceive the world. Tom was yet another example of how to go about this with joy and focused intention.
After having kabob that impressed the hell out of us, we gave our profound thanks to Tom and his family and wished them well in every way. The rest of the night I seemed to operate in a fluid and almost slow-motion bubble; every feeling, thought, and action I lived was apparently set in motion by this interaction between Tom, my mom, and me.
Itch, itch, scratch, scratch. Wide awake and in search of the critters crawling all over my body! I couldn't scratch, shake, or scrub off anything. Was it bed-bugs?! I glanced over at my mom, frustrated. She was sleeping contentedly. I groaned in even deeper frustration. Eight hours of the same while wishing, hoping, giving up, and doing the same cycle over again.
The alarm sounds. My mom rises out of bed while stretching as if celebrating her successful night's sleep. I can only watch as I'm fully packed and ready to go after having showered and shaved. My attitude is in the dumps; in the same place where my energy is.
Another meeting of an angel. This time, I find him annoying given my chosen and involuntary disposition.
Angel: Hi, how are you?!
Man: I'm doing good and you?
Angel: I'm wonderful! Wow, that was a very nice place we stayed in; don't you think?!
Man: Yeah, I liked it a lot...
Angel: So, where are you from?
There's a cut in the action; the angel unknowingly pulls his roller-luggage right over the feet of an older woman standing next to him on the bus. The lady makes a painful cry.
The man offers a quick and almost unconcerned apology as he returns his attention, once again undivided, to the man in front of him.
Man (continues): I'm from Guatemala, but I live in the U.S. now.
Angel: Wow! Guatemala. How interesting! Where in the States do you live.
Man: in Los Angeles, actually.
Angel: Very nice! I used to live in the Silicon Valley for a number of years. I love California!
...
This may seem like a normal conversation to you, but one rarely is present to such passion, attention, and optimism that this man embodied.
Our bus moved it's way up the curvy uphill streets of Granada in the direction of our destination, el Alhambra. It was the last holdout of the Moors in Spain. It was originally constructed to be a fortress (in 889 AD) and later was converted into a castle (1333 AD). In 1492, the Christians seized control of the Alhambra and thus took up residence in it for summer vacations and during other royal visits.
Our journey to the precipice overlooking the valley of Granada below was breathtaking. One can see the sense that the Moors had in placing this fortress here. I'd be surprised if they also hadn't seen what this place had to offer in the future in terms of a future castle for the Muslim emirs who were to enjoy the sights of this area for many centuries. Six hundred years of rule in this city is a long time, and the effects of this time is visible in the influences in many other areas of Granadan society (and also that of the region). The music, dress, Spanish (and Portuguese) accent, food, drink, religion, cultural customs, and all other areas of life here.
I write all of this with our "Angel" in mind, since in various ways I could see how he could've been one of these Muslim emirs, or rulers, in the past. This makes me ponder something: Was Angel a reincarnation of a past ruler of this city? Was he only returning to his city to pay homage to his history, his people, his home, and his city? In this crazy world, you never know.
But, then my logical mind comes back into play. The analyzer/critic says: No, that can't be! He's from Bangladesh! Reincarnation isn't real! You're making all of this up!
I must admit, I was in a horrible mood that morning/day/trip (to Spain...) given the bout with imaginary bed-bugs the night before. What a drag it was to feel this at such an integral time; with such perfect company in terms of my mom, Angel, and others that we met along the way. I felt for the rest of our tour of the Alhambra as I was the walking/annoyed/frustrated dead only passing through this place in default mode. That was the last thing that I wanted when all was said and done.
Angel floated on through the park while my mom had to difficultly put up with me; the pain in the ass! The downer, the victim, the sorry soul that was in so much inner turmoil... Was there a way out?! Considered all parties...
The Alhambra is such an interesting place. With it's immaculate and spacious gardens that stretch the length of the park leading its way to the front step of structures that are detailed to the max in the intricate honeycomb patterns that are the norm in all Moorish/Arabic art and decor. The intricacies are usually present only on the ceilings and (some) walls, while the floors and many walls (especially exterior walls) are comprised of tiles or brick. Though the latter materials are block-like and heavy in aesthetics and weight, they are usually either adorned with beautiful motifs in a variety of patterns, as in the case of tile, or, as in the case of brick, each individual block is organized in a way that creates a larger pattern.
To me, Moorish art is the meeting of two worlds: the earth; and the heavens. Bricks and tiles have a grounding/foundational affect, whereby the detailed engravings in the marble of the columns, ceilings, and many walls is more ethereal in appearance and feel. In considering the visible difference between Moorish and Christian art, I'm struck by the common grains found. For one, hard blocks with little detail for the foundation and the upper reaches of the structures hold the inspiration in terms of passion/spirit; angels and apostles for Christians, dizzying yet organized honeycomb patterns for the Moors.
The wonderful aspect of the Alhambra, similar to other Moorish and non-Moorish buildings, is that it provides one the impulse to pause and sit in the relaxing wonder of its architecture, both inside and out. And that's what we did, after the hour or so of passionate inspection of the ceilings, walls, columns, foundations, gardens, and pools/fountains of the area.
It was so relaxing to sit and breath the cool air that flowed through the grounds. It was easy to image what days in the past were like for the former inhabitants, clergy, and soldiers of the Alhambra. In times of peace, it would be a hard place to leave, since most everything was held within its walls. Most integral of all, the views of the city below, the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains the protruded from the earth, fountains, pools, bountiful flowers and plants... Wow! I was falling into the hippie wonderland that can be any setting if we give ourselves the time to pause, breathe, and let go...
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